Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Why on earth a whole page about Extra Virgin Olive Oil?

Well… it is a fair question. Why dedicate an entire section of a website about Food Quality, Nutrition and Health to a single food?
Because extra virgin olive oil sits exactly at the intersection of all three.

Extra virgin olive oil connects childhood memories and the land where I grew up with more than twenty years of working with food quality, my background in chemistry, my work and interest in nutrition, and an ever-growing curiosity about what makes this apparently simple food so extraordinary.

In many ways, extra virgin olive oil sits exactly where food quality, nutrition and health meet.

Traditional stone macina, once commonly used in Italian olive mills to crush olives into a paste before oil extraction.

A taste that brings back many memories — simple bread drizzled with freshly extracted olive oil, right there at the frantoio.

It Started Long Before the Science

Extra virgin olive oil is very much connected with my memories of childhood, family and home.

I come from Abruzzo, in central Italy, where two plants dominate much of the green landscape: grapevines (typically Montepulciano and Trebbiano) and olive trees.

Traditionally, the two often grew side by side. Olive trees could be found amongst the vines or planted along the boundaries of vineyards or at times in a small grove.

When the grape harvest finished in the still-warm days at the beginning of autumn, another harvest was approaching.

The olives.

Olive harvesting traditionally began around the middle of October and could continue into December. It was hard work, and as autumn turned into winter, there were years when olives were still being collected with snow on the ground — or even on the trees. I really did not like that, although I look back at it with some nostalgia now, I know I still would find it really hard work!

But after all that work came one of the best moments: taking the olives to the frantoio — the olive mill.

I still remember waiting there for our turn.

At the time, it was common to see the olives going into the macina, the traditional mill where enormous stone wheels slowly crushed the olives into a paste before the oil was extracted.

And then, eventually, came the oil.

Fresh, intensely aromatic, cloudy and green — something completely different from simply picking up a bottle from a supermarket shelf.

From time to time, the frantoiano (the person running the olive mill) or his wife would bring out some bread, perhaps toasted if it wasn’t fresh from that day, and drizzle the newly extracted oil over it.
Nothing complicated.

Bread and freshly pressed olive oil.

But what a taste!

Those are some of my earliest memories of olive oil.

Then It Became Part of My Work

Years later, I found myself returning to the frantoio for very different reasons.
This time, I wasn’t simply waiting for our family’s olives to be processed. I was there professionally — checking hygiene and production practices, taking samples and assessing the quality of the oil.

My personal connection with olive oil had begun to meet my professional life.
The more I learned, the more curious I became.

That curiosity eventually led me to undertake training in the sensory evaluation of virgin olive oils, alongside my existing background in food quality and chemistry.

And something else fascinated me.

Growing up, I had always heard my parents and local farmers say that olive oil was “the best fat”.

For years, I wondered how much of that was science and how much was simply tradition. After all, olive oil was what we produced, what we ate and what generations before us had always used. Perhaps we naturally wanted to believe that ours was the best.

What a satisfaction, therefore, to discover later, as my knowledge of nutrition developed, that — as so often happens — our parents knew more than we thought.

Today, we have more science with which to understand why.

A modern frantoio, where technology and careful processing help preserve the quality and natural characteristics of the olives during extraction.
More Than a Source of Fat

Extra virgin olive oil is mainly fat, with a high proportion of oleic acid, a monounsaturated fatty acid and one of the characteristic components of the traditional Mediterranean diet.

But describing EVOO simply by its fatty-acid composition misses much of what makes it interesting.

Unlike refined oils, extra virgin olive oil is obtained directly from olives using mechanical processes and retains a complex range of naturally occurring minor components.

Among them are phenolic compounds, tocopherols, squalene, phytosterols, pigments and volatile compounds.

Although present in small quantities, some of these substances contribute to aroma and flavour, some influence the stability of the oil, and others have attracted considerable scientific interest because of their potential biological effects.

This is where extra virgin olive oil becomes fascinating from both a food-quality and nutritional perspective.

Standard nutrition declarations are useless when assessing olive oil quality.

Because olive oil is pure fat, routine commercial lab testing focuses almost entirely on basic macronutrients and calories. Compare the mandatory nutrition table of an artisanal, high-polyphenol EVOO with a cheap, degraded supermarket blend, and they look identical on paper: ~100% fat, high monounsaturated content, identical energy values.

The table tells you nothing about fruit health, harvest timing, oxidation levels, processing temperatures, or sensory defects. Nor does it reveal the concentration of bioactive phenolics. To evaluate EVOO, you have to look far beyond the back-label nutrition box.

The quality and nutritional characteristics of extra virgin olive oil are not completely separate subjects.

What happens to the fruit — from the olive tree through harvesting, crushing, extraction and storage — can influence the characteristics of the oil we eventually consume.
Variety, ripeness, the condition of the fruit, the time between harvesting and milling, processing conditions, exposure to oxygen, storage and many other factors can affect its sensory and chemical profile.

EVOO is therefore an excellent example of a principle that I consider important when looking at nutrition:
It isn’t only what food we eat that matters. The quality and history of that food can matter too.

Among the components of extra virgin olive oil that fascinate me most are its phenolic compounds.

These include compounds related to hydroxytyrosol, tyrosol, oleuropein and ligstroside, together with substances such as oleocanthal and oleacein.

They help explain some of the characteristic sensations of a good EVOO — including bitterness and that distinctive peppery sensation at the back of the throat — but their significance goes further.

They contribute to the oil’s oxidative stability and have become an important area of research in nutrition and human health.

During an olive oil sensory analysis session at the Istituto Agrario di Firenze, Italy, in a dedicated tasting booth designed to allow sensory evaluation under controlled conditions, without external distractions.

This is also why EVOO is so interesting when we talk about functional foods and nutraceuticals.

Extra virgin olive oil is, of course, a food — not a supplement and certainly not a medicine. Yet the biologically active substances naturally present within it, and what happens to those substances during production, storage, cooking and in our bodies, make it a very interesting subject of nutritional research.

Health claims on food are rightly controlled in Europe under strict EFSA (European Food Safety Authority) regulations. Unlike the endless stream of unregulated “superfood” marketing claims, olive oil polyphenols possess an officially authorised EU health claim:

Olive oil polyphenols contribute to the protection of blood lipids from oxidative stress.

To legally carry this claim, the oil must provide at least 5 mg of hydroxytyrosol and its derivatives per 20 g of oil, with the beneficial effect achieved through a daily intake of 20 g.

Why is this remarkable? 
We are surrounded by supplements and products promoted with all sorts of impressive health language, yet the health claims that can legally appear on foods in Europe are actually very tightly controlled.

And here we have olive oil, a food that has been part of our diet for thousands of years, with a specific authorised health claim for its polyphenols.

I think that says something about just how exceptional this food really is.

The more I have learned about extra virgin olive oil, the more I have realised how much there is still to explore.

My particular interests include the relationship between quality, sensory characteristics, phenolic composition, oxidation and stability, processing, cooking and human nutrition.

There is a lot of confusing and contrasting information surrounding olive oil.

Questions that appear straightforward can become complex when we look at the actual science.

Rather than trying to answer all those questions on this page, this is intended as the starting point — a place from which I can explore different aspects of EVOO, the research behind them and their practical relevance.

For me, extra virgin olive oil brings together things that at one time in my life were completely separate.

It started with childhood memories in Abruzzo — olive trees amongst the vineyards, cold days harvesting olives, waiting at the frantoio for our turn, and tasting the new oil simply drizzled over bread.

Years later, I returned to the frantoio professionally, looking at hygiene, taking samples and assessing the quality of the oil. Then came sensory training, nutrition, and an even greater curiosity about the science behind something that had been part of my life all along.

And there is still so much I want to learn, taste and understand.

Food Quality • Nutrition • Health.

Few foods bring those three worlds together quite like extra virgin olive oil.

Knowing the theory is one thing. Tasting the oil is another.

From time to time, I will publish my sensory evaluations of individual extra virgin olive oils — looking at their aromas, fruitiness, bitterness, pungency, balance and other characteristics, together with information about the producer, cultivar, origin and harvest where available.
Thiese are simply to give oils a score or trying to identify “the best olive oil”. Part of the fascination of EVOO is discovering the great diversity that can exist between oils, cultivars, regions and harvests.

You don’t need to be a professional taster to begin recognising and appreciating the characteristics of a good extra virgin olive oil.
I am planning small, informal and affordable olive-oil tasting classes in the London area, aimed at people who simply enjoy olive oil and would like to understand it better — how to taste it, recognise its positive characteristics and discover just how different one EVOO can be from another.

Details of these and other learning opportunities will be published on the Courses page as they become available.

Explore Courses →

My interest in EVOO also means that, from time to time, I come across oils that I consider particularly interesting, whether for their overall quality, sensory characteristics, provenance or naturally high phenolic content.

Where appropriate, I may select a small number of these for the Curated Shop.
This is not a conventional olive-oil shop with a permanent catalogue.
Olive oil is a seasonal product. Harvests differ, availability changes, small producers sell out, and an exceptional oil is not something that should simply be replaced with another product because a space on a shop page needs filling.

So there may sometimes be several oils available, sometimes only one, and sometimes none at all.

If there is nothing there, it simply means that at that precise time I don’t have an oil I want to recommend.
You can always check the Curated Shop to see what I have currently selected.

Visit the Curated Shop →

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